Last Wednesday, against my recommendation, we departed Palm Cay (New Providence Island-south of Nassau) ~ noon to cross to the Exumas. We only had about 35 miles to go, but my most accurate marine weather forecast, Buoy Weather, called for some nasty wind and seas. Three other forecasts were much more mild. Alas, it was an absolutely shitty trip.

We arrived at Allan’s Cay before sunset and dropped the hook. Wind was still howling, but we were mostly protected with some slight rolling.

We are still buddy boating with The Lower Place who informed us the splicing they just had done in Marathon failed and they lost their anchor and 50 feet of chain. They hooked up with their secondary anchor and rode and we discussed finding their primary anchor the next day.

The next morning was beautiful, but still windy.

Mike hooked up a tow line and towed Charlie around where they had been anchored.

After a lot of searching, we couldn’t find the anchor. We met a lovely Canadian couple cruising with their 6 month old and 14 month old babies who said they would help (it is true…Canadians are just flat out nice). Also, another couple from Canada began snorkeling around looking for the lost tackle. As Mike and I were going back and forth in the dinghy, somebody raised his hands. We went over to where he was and he had spotted the anchor! Louie (with the babies) free dove 22 feet and tied a line to the end of the chain. He helped Charlie bring up the chain and hoist the anchor from the ground. The cruising community is the best!

In the midst of the anchor drama, we went ashore to look at the iguanas. There are a LOT of them on Allan’s Cay. Funny dudes walking about the beach totally unfazed by people.

Water in Allen’s Cay was so clear that it was often difficult to tell how deep it was. When in the dinghy, we frequently use our hand-held sounder:

The next morning, Mike and I took off and went south. It was the best and most beautiful day on the water we have had here. The winds were calm and seas were glass. The views of the various cays were absolutely stunning.

We sailed ~ 30 miles to the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. This was my must-go to stop in the Exumas, and it did not disappoint! The north part of the park where we went has 22 mooring balls in a huge bay with sandbars all around. The water in here is beyond amazing.

After we tied up to the mooring ball, we donned our bathing suits and jumped in the water. Behind our boat about 40 feet was a bar of pristine white sand. You could swim there and walk around, or go further in and just plunk your butt in it. Was so cool! There were lots of huge rays swimming around. After we got out, we saw a decent sized bull shark. Was happy we didn’t see him while swimming.

The next day, we hiked around the island. We started along the east side, walking along volcanic rock, where we had stunning views of the Atlantic.

We ultimately got around to the West side of the island from which the views were even more spectacular.

We walked up to Boo Boo Hill which is where cruisers take driftwood with their boat’s name and put it in the pile. We put a beautiful shell there instead.

When walking down the west side along the beach, there is a whale skeleton which is super cool.

Took a swim after our hike. Late that afternoon, there was a pot luck on the beach. Mike baked zucchini bread to bring which was a huge hit. Although I sprayed myself, I got eaten alive by the bugs. I’m hoping to build up a tolerance to them since I have had so much of their poison in me, but it is not to be. <insert by Mike: Having Mary around is kinda like my own repellent (or maybe sacrificial lamb?). I get bites too…but thankfully not like she does. She’s just tastier, I guess…sigh>

The next morning, we sadly departed our beautiful park and headed back north to Shroud Cay. As we were heading out, we were hailed by Gypsy’s Palace who advised us the seas were pretty crappy. He was right, but we only had them abeam for about an hour until we turned right and had them behind us. We surfed our way to Shroud Cay and dropped the hook in some pretty skinny water (we showed a foot under the keel at low tide).

We hopped in the dinghy and took a ride through the mangroves toward the Atlantic. We saw rays and sea turtles. Was a beautiful ride.

After about a 40 minute ride, we beached our dinghy right before the cut out to the ocean. Wow! The beach was stunning!

We hiked up to a place called Driftwood Camp for a view from up top.

Headed back to the boat for what turned out to be a really, really rolly night at anchor.

The next morning, we took off around 8:00 along the West side of the Exumas en route to Highborne Cay. We hadn’t had internet for days and were trying to see what the weather looked like to determine if we would hit an anchorage or the marina. As we were still trying to connect, we went past the marina at Highbourne and decided to poke our heads out into the Atlantic. The seas weren’t great, but weren’t too bad, so we went an additional 26 miles to Cape Eleuthera. Super easy entrance to the marina, and a beautiful spot. We knew some weather was coming in a couple days, so were happy to have a nice place to wait it out. And, there’s a great restaurant a short walk away with a stunning view of the sea.

Tuesday was chore day. Did spring cleaning inside the boat, while Mike washed the outside. Did have time to take a dip in the pool. There are three private beaches here which are gorgeous.

Wednesday, took a lovely, long walk.

Today, we rented a car ($90 a day here will get you a 10 year old Hyundai SUV that has seen much better days) and drove to the north side of the island. There are so many trees on the island, to include pine trees. And, hills where most of the islands are pretty flat. It was interesting to drive on the left side of the road. We went to Glass Window Bridge which is where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Caribbean Sea. It was amazing! The Atlantic was absolutely raging! The Caribbean was super still.

We continued north a bit more and hopped on a water taxi to Harbour Island. We walked to Queen Conch for lunch as it was highly recommended to us. Beautiful spot overlooking the water. Mike ordered a mojito. About 5 minutes later, the bartender came over and advised that because he was busy, he wouldn’t have time to make a mojito and would Mike like a beer. He, very slowly, went through the different beers offered. By the time he left, I could have made 10 mojitos. Was hilarious. Not to be outdone by the bartender, our server brought out meals for the four of us 45 minutes, an hour and an hour and 15 minutes after we ordered them. Needless to say, not a great recommendation! But at least the scenery was nice.

Long trek back to the boat, but made it in one piece, and the car didn’t break down which seemed a miracle! As is the story of our lives, we are again awaiting a weather window to venture north. Likely won’t be until Tuesday. Thankfully, we are in a lovely place in the interim and really enjoying Eleuthera.

Happy birthday to our nephew Brendan! Cheers – M&M