Killarney, Ontario to Mary Ann Cove to Baie Fine East to Little Current to Benjamin Islands to Harbor Island, Michigan to Government Bay, MI to St. Ignace, MI to Harbor Springs, MI to Sutton’s Bay, MI.

Killarney, Ontario to Mary Ann Cove to Baie Fine East to Little Current to Benjamin Islands to Harbor Island, Michigan to Government Bay, MI to St. Ignace, MI to Harbor Springs, MI to Sutton’s Bay, MI.

Better late than never. August 19, 2019 marks the one year anniversary that we left California. We have since sailed almost 6000 miles from our starting point in Kentucky. Other than missing family and friends something fierce, this has been an incredible trip thus far.

We departed Killarney under sunny skies and brisk winds.

beautiful Northern Channel

Did a short run of ~28 miles to Mary Ann Cove in Baie Fine. Baie Fine is one of the largest freshwater fjords in the world. It is surrounded by quartz cliffs and is absolutely stunning. We chilled out in the cove as we got there late afternoon. I did not get enough pictures.

entering Baie Fine

The next morning, we picked up anchor and went into the fjord another 7 miles and anchored. Jumped into the dinghy and anchored into The Pool, which was beautiful but crowded. Tied up to a tree and hiked up to Topaz Lake. Super clear lake with gorgeous quartz rock. Water wasn’t too warm, but Mike actually got in with a floaty and a beer. I had a great swim.

<Insert by Mike: Mikey boy don’t be liking cold water…but hey! How many times in my life will I be able to do this? As the old saying goes…it did warm up a bit after a while. I was, however, speaking a few octaves higher.>

Topaz Lake – courtesy of Scaliwag
Topaz Lake – courtesy of Scaliwag

Next day, made the short run to Little Current in really nice seas. Beautiful leg.

lovely lighthouses everywhere

Little Current was another cute town. While in the Northern Channel, cruisers can tune into to Channel 71 on the marine radio for the daily Cruisers Network. Roy Eaton hosts this every morning during the months of July and August from the Anchor Inn in Little Current. It was fun to see where folks were, and hear the surrounding weather conditions. Each morning during this 1 hour or so broadcast, boaters would “check in” from the various outlying areas. We heard 95 cruisers check in one morning. I just realized I took no pictures of Little Current.

Departed the next morning for the Benjamin Islands. More brisk winds, but the seas were good.

Coming into the Benjamin Islands

The Benjamins were gorgeous. That said, the anchorage was pretty damn rolly. This was to be our last stop in Canada which was bittersweet.

Scaliwag at anchor – South Benjamin Island

Took off at sunrise for the 80 mile run to Harbor Island, Michigan. Were treated to beautiful skies.

departing the Benjamin Islands

We had crappy beam seas for the first 25 miles, then the seas were gorgeous! Popped a bottle of Veuve with Parker and Leslie and toasted to being back in the USA!!! (Because nothing screams America like good french champagne.)

Departed the next morning en route to Government Island, which was out of the Northern Channel and into Lake Huron proper. Had perfect weather, sunny skies and glassy seas.

Michigan lighthouse
Happy to be back in the states!
nothing like calm waters!

Arrived Government Bay, which is part of the Les Cheneaux Islands, early afternoon. Jumped in our dinghies and went about 4 miles to the town of Cedarville. Happened upon a fantastic draft beer and distillery joint that had great food!

Les Chêneaux Distillers
super cool joint

Had a fabulous lunch, and some great cocktails. Bought a bottle of whiskey to support the local economy. Had a fabulous dinner on Scaliwag and were treated to a gorgeous sunset.

Scaliwag and Forever Friday

Took off the next morning for Saint Ignace, MI. Took off early and had beautiful conditions for the short ~24 mile run. Sailed past Mackinac Island which was so cool. My folks went there years ago and absolutely loved it! The weather forecast was calling for high winds and periodic thunderstorms for days, so we knew we were going to be in a marina for a while. This was a bummer as we had been so spoiled by the phenomenal anchorages of Georgian Bay and the Northern Channel. But, I knew I could get lots of laundry done and do a ton of provisioning!

The next day, we took the ferry to Mackinac (pronounced Mackinaw) Island. It was a cold and blustery day, but beautiful nonetheless. Walked around the island and marveled in its beauty.

The Grand Hotel
Grand Hotel lobby
looking south at the lighthouses
one of the many charming homes on the island
The Stone Church

So, there are no automobiles allowed on the island (except for public safety & ambulances–and they hide them!). You get around by walking, riding a bike, riding a horse (they rent them), or riding in a horse drawn carriage. Mackinac Island is known for their fudge. There are fudge shops everywhere. We laughed walking around as the whole east (touristy) side of the island smells like horse shit and chocolate. It’s an odd combination. We shlepped up the hill to do a walking tour of the fort. It was very cool, and the views from there were stunning.

View of Mackinac Island harbor from the fort

By the time we ferried back to St. Ignace, the winds and seas were ripping! It was a wild ride. I was shocked, and very pleased, people on the boat weren’t sick. Those jet boats rock!

Now THAT’s a rooster tail! Too cool!

The next few days, we did a lot of walking, eating and drinking around St. Ignace. We went to farmers markets and art shows. We tucked in during numerous thunderstorms. Then, we ate, drank and walked some more. It was a lovely town, and I really dug the people. They were almost all locals and very proud to be from the UP (upper peninsula). They called themselves “Yoopers,” while *nicely* referring to folks who reside south of the Mackinac Bridge as “trolls.” Our breakfast server told us “vacationers” were called, “fudgies,” as most come for a visit to Mackinaw & the local fudge. She didn’t have a name for us folk on the loop–we’ll just keep on with the “looper” handle.

St. Ignace Marina – the water was unbelievably clear and beautiful
Wawatam Lighthouse, St. Ignace, MI

Funny story…shortly after we tied up our boats, Parker said, “I saw a Mexican restaurant across the street. I’m dying to have Mexican.” I (being a Southern California Mexican food snob) shook my head, but said we’d go check it out. Lo and behold, there is no Mexican food in St. Ignace, but rather a burger and beer joint named MI Patio…MI being the abbreviation for Michigan. Parker read it as Mi’ Patio and had visions of tacos and guacamole! I ribbed him about it every time we walked past.

Mike and Parker in front of MI Patio (or Mi’ Patio).

While in St. Ignace, we met members of the St. Ignace Yacht Club. I am so bummed I didn’t take a picture of it! It was about a 15′ by 18′ structure on one of the long docks. It had an ice maker, panini press, popcorn machine, crock pot, bar, refrigerator and table and chairs in it. There was a beautiful BBQ and picnic tables just outside. They gave us the keypad code and told us we could use their club anytime. We did use it one night to have crockpot chili and play dominos, while it was thunderstorming outside. Thank you to the SIYC! The thunderstorms do make for some interesting skies.

double rainbow as seen from the stern of the boat after a thunderstorm
a sunrise off the stern

Also while in St. Ignace, we were contacted by Greg and Shelly Simmons, MI natives who happened to be in the Government Bay anchorage. They forwarded a great picture of our boats to us.

Forever Friday and Scaliwag courtesy of Greg Simmons

They were vacationing nearby and asked if we needed a ride to provision or anything. They ended up coming by the boat and brought us a beautiful package of Michigan goodies! So nice. Greg is retiring in March and they are hoping to do the Loop soon. Thank you Greg & Shelly!

Michigan goodies

We FINALLY left St. Ignace yesterday morning after taking on 250 gallons (cough cough) of diesel ($800.00!) Seas were beautiful as we went under the Mackinac Bridge.

Mackinac Bridge
Beware! Yoopers on one side, Trolls on the other!

Seas picked up a bit, but we had a lovely trip about 55 miles to Harbor Springs, another super charming town. Took off on our peds for a walk and dinner. Had a fabulous meal at a local bistro.

lovely church
Harbo Springs, MI

Took off this morning, and had a sporty sail to Sutton’s Bay, about a 46 mile run.

a bit lively out there!

Going to chill out on the upper deck, then dinghy into town later. Scaliwag is here with us, and Heartbeat just pulled in. Will have a little AT rendezvous.

Sorry for such a long blog. Hope everyone is having a wonderful Labor Day weekend! Stay safe. Cheers! M&M

<Insert by Mike: What she said…word!>

7 thoughts on “Killarney, Ontario to Mary Ann Cove to Baie Fine East to Little Current to Benjamin Islands to Harbor Island, Michigan to Government Bay, MI to St. Ignace, MI to Harbor Springs, MI to Sutton’s Bay, MI.

  1. Hi you two! As always, I enjoy reading your posts. I see you are getting closer to Chicago. When you know you will be passing though I hope to see you if I am in town! If you like a day, or a few off the water you are more than welcome come stay by me, I’d love to have you.
    Talk soon XO

  2. I’ve been following your blog since the beginning. Thank you so much for sharing! I really enjoy reading about your adventures! My wife and I are from Mt. Juliet, TN (Go Vols) and hope to do the Loop in a few more years ( Gotta get kids squared away). I studied your trip like a tutorial. Safe travels!

    Greg D

  3. I’ve been following your blog since the beginning. Thank you so much for sharing! I really enjoy reading about your adventures! My wife and I are from Mt. Juliet, TN (Go Vols) and hope to do the Loop in a few more years ( Gotta get kids squared away). I studied your trip like a tutorial. Safe travels!

    Greg D

    1. Great to hear from you, Greg…and thanks for the kind words. We did the same thing (studied other’s blogs for info)…even though we had sailed for better part of 4 decades, there was so much that was new to us. Good luck with your future plans & get those kids squared away (properly…lol)!
      Take care, M&M

  4. Thank You SOOO much Mike and Mary.

    It was truly our pleasure to meet the two of you and “provision” you with just a few of Michigan’s goodies. Thank you for the tour of M/V Forever Friday and for letting us pick your brains about the LOOP, the boat, and your adventures.

    We hope to meet up with the two of you again someday soon when we are on ‘permanent’ vacation and neither one of us has a boat project that we are literally right in the middle of. Hope you were able to complete it that night, Mike.

    Fair winds and following seas as you continue your adventure.

    Your new Michigan Friends,

    Greg & Shelly

    1. Totally our pleasure, G&S! Have had a blast on the Michigan shores & have met the nicest people! Can’t wait to hear from you that you’re out & about! Cheers, Mike & Mary

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